I have so many photos to share so please pardon me if this post is all over the place. I want to try cover a bit of everything in one post instead of resorting to publishing multiple posts about the Lamu Cultural Festival.

Lamu town is termed as “the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa” and there is no better way to showcase Lamu’s rich history and culture than with a cultural festival.

Lamu Cultural Festival_Town square

The annual Lamu Cultural Festival has been a celebration of the unique Swahili heritage of the Lamu Archipelago, 2001, the same year Lamu was declared a world heritage site. The festival is a showcase of traditional dances, displays of handicraft and competitions on water and land (donkey races, dhow races, Swahili poetry, henna painting), a Swahili bridal ceremony and musical performances.

The festival is spread over 4 days, the programme states that it starts on Thursday but most of the action takes place on Friday and Saturday.

I arrived in Lamu on Thursday night and on Friday morning I was up bright and early to watch the sunrise.

Lamu_sunrise

 

Lamu_sunrise1

 

Lamu_sunrise2

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_dusk1

 

I left my room early to give myself a time allowance in case I got lost. This gave me enough time to watch the town come to life. I spent Friday touring Lamu Town so I missed out on most of what was happening on that day. However, I did make time for the dhow race and a women’s only event – a last minute addition to the programme.

I had expected the dhow race to be exciting. I was in for a surprise; I suppose it was exciting for the locals who had teams they were supporting as for me I was just left wondering when the race would end. They seemed to be racing in slow motion, mainly because there was barely any wind.

Lamu Cultural Festival_dhow race

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_dhow race2

 

 

I didn’t catch the end of the race, by this time I had been on my feet all day and was ready to take a break.

Lamu Cultural Festival_little boy

 

dhow race highlight of the Lamu Cultural Festival

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_dhow race5

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_dhow race8

 

The women only event was a bit of a disappointment. I had assumed that since men were not allowed that the women would be dancing chakacha (a traditional swahili hip swaying dance style). Instead they were perfoming Taarab (Taarab is a music genre popular in Tanzania and Kenya. It is influenced by the musical traditions of the African Great Lakes, North Africa, the Middle East, and the Indian subcontinent.) music, no dancing at all. I didn’t stay long and went to went back to watch the dhow race.

Lamu Cultural Festival_women only event

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_women singing

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_old woman singing

 

Saturday however I woke up ready to experience everything that the festival had to offer.

One thing to note is that the times on the programme are merely suggestions, none of the major events started on time so the best thing to do is just be patient and wait or you will miss out.

The one thing I did not want to miss out on was the donkey race final. Donkeys are a big part of Lamu culture. Due to its narrow streets they’re the only form of transport on the island. There are about 6,000 donkeys and only 2 working cars on the island.

Lamu Cultural Festival_StreetLamu’s narrow streets

 

I watched the donkey race final from Lamu Palace Hotel thanks to a suggestion from my host Arnold of Jambohouse. This really was the best vantage point, I did not have to fight with the crowds plus I was able to get some great shots of the competitors. There was free wi-fi too, a rarity in Lamu.

The race starts at the Lamu museum, and takes part along the length of the seafront.

Lamu Cultural Festival_Lamu Palace HotelLamu Palace Hotel

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race1

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race2 You can’t tell from his smile but this guy had come in last. His donkey had given up  and completely refused to race. One of the locals quipped that he’d gotten a puncture.

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race3

 

There were about 4 heats before the final race.

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race4

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race 5

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race 8

 

I thought the race was over and had walked to the starting point only to find that the race had not actually ended.

Lamu Cultural Festival_donkey race winner

Be warned that it gets very crowded. Try as you might you will not be able to wholly experience the festival if you attend only once. It can be a bit overwhelming and you will have to pick and choose the events that you don’t want to miss out on.

I missed most of the musical performances taking place in the seafront since I did not have the energy to fight with the crowds.

Lamu Cultural Festival_seafrontSeafront during the height of the festival

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_Seafront1

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_Seafront2The seafront in calmer times

.

Lamu Cultural Festival_Seafront3

 

I was able to catch one, a group of drummers only because they suddenly started drumming a few meters away from where I was.

Lamu Cultural Festival_drummers

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_drummers2

 

I missed out on much more than I had intended to because I was just so tired. After the first day of walking my feet were swollen and aching .

Sunday the last day of the festival was pretty chill. I had been looking forward to the food bazaar expecting it to be a showcase of Swahili food but it wasn’t. There were only 4 items of food available, 2 of which were rice. The set up looked so pitiful that I did not even take a picture.

The very last event for the festival took part at the town’s main square

Lamu_dusk

 

Lamu Culturl Festival_Mkunguni square

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_Taarab Band

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_Taarab Band1

 

Lamu Cultural Festival_Taarab Band2

 

Would I visit Lamu again? Definitely. I would have to say the best time to visit Lamu is during a festival of which there are plenty.

 

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7 Comments

  1. Manesha
    January 18, 2016 at 2:00 pm — Reply

    Why is it that this trip does not make me yearn to visit..

  2. January 19, 2016 at 6:09 am — Reply

    The photos make it look fantastic, even with the disappointments and sore feet.
    I have never seen a donkey race before.
    Rhonda Albom recently posted…Cape Reinga: Stunning and Spiritual Top of New ZealandMy Profile

  3. January 19, 2016 at 6:26 pm — Reply

    Rachael, The Lamu festival now has a prominent place on my “wanderlist”! How colorful; how delightful! Those donkeys! I really would love to see it.

  4. January 21, 2016 at 7:53 pm — Reply

    Looks fun! That part of Africa is so far for us! but i would really like to see it.
    eileen g recently posted…7 Best Tips For Fun Ski Trips With KidsMy Profile

  5. January 25, 2016 at 8:28 pm — Reply

    Despite the crowds and the pitiful food selection, it seems like this would be a great event to attend. I wouldn’t want to miss out on the donkey races either, and I’m sure the music was great.

  6. January 26, 2016 at 4:31 pm — Reply

    Asante, Rachael. Nice written and beautiful photos!

    • February 20, 2016 at 6:50 pm — Reply

      Thanks Arnold, I can’t wait to come back.

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