This post has been a long time coming. If you missed out on my last post about Ol Pejeta you can catch it here.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_Mt. Kenya


I arrived in Ol Pejeta late Friday evening and I was up bright and early on Saturday ready to make the most of the day. After getting to see Sudan, the last male standing and Baraka the blind rhino in the morning we went back to the lodge for lunch after which we were given the choice between two activities for the afternoon. One could either pick lion tracking or a bush walk. I was quite keen on seeing a lion in the wild so the obvious choice for me was the lion tracking.
Tummy full, off we went. I was quite excited, this being my very first lion tracking experience. However, the excitement soon died down. About 30 minutes into the activity there was no sign of the lioness and I was ready to give up. I really wanted to see some lions and our driver had gotten some news over the radio that there was a pride in an area not too far from where we were.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_lion tracking


We were ready to turn back but our guide insisted that we continue on the search for the lion. Our (more like our guide’s) determination finally paid off and we eventually tracked down the elusive lioness.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_lioness2


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_lioness1


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_lioness


We were pleased to see her but she was least concerned. She only had a half a tail, having lost the rest of it during a fight with one of the males in her pride. She lay down resting in the shade, not giving a care as we furiously clicked away trying to capture the moment. We spent a few minutes watching her as she lazily sauntered from one tree to another. Having had our fill we were off to see what more the day had to offer.
The data collected during lion tracking goes straight to Ol Pejeta’s ecological monitoring department and helps them find solutions to the challenges facing Laikipia’s lions.

Ol Pejeta is host to lots of wildlife, it has one of the highest densities of predators in the Laikipia area. Other than the lioness we tracked down, we came across the pride I had mentioned earlier resting in the shade of a tree but they were too far off for me to get a proper picture.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_scenery


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_Buffalo


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephant


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_greater kudu


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_ostriches


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_ostrich1


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_ostrich


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_warthogs


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_zebra


We had to drop off part of the group at Ol Pejeta House and on our way back it started raining. This was no problem for us but we had to help out a driver who had gotten stuck on the road. The roads in Ol Pejeta are well maintained and in the dry season you can manage without a four wheel drive car. However when it rains you’re better off in a 4WD

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_rainbowThe aftermath


One of my favourite places in Ol Pejeta was this swampy area. Loads of elephants and beautiful scenery. They must be fond of the area because of the abundance of water.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephants1


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephants


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_trees


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_pied kingfisher


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_superb starling


I had planned to go for a night game drive because I have never gone for one and most national parks do not allow people to go for game drives at night, however by the time evening came I was exhausted and all I wanted to do was sleep so I just had to pass on the night game drive. One more reason why I should be visiting Ol Pejeta again soon.
The next morning I was up bright and early for a morning game drive. It is quite chilly on the morning so do dress warmly if you intend to go for one.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephants drinking


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephant2


A few minutes after we had left the camp, we went to pick up our colleagues at Ol Pejeta house and on our way there we ran onto a driver who told us about a pair of lions mating. The game drivers refer to this as ‘harusi’ (Swahili for wedding).

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_funny signFunny sign as we crossed the bridge to get to Ol Pejeta House


We drove to where the lions were and they just happened to be taking a break. Lions mate for day at a time. When a lioness is in heat, a male will join her, staying with her constantly Mating sessions last for less than a minute and take place in intervals of 15-30 minutes

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_mating lions3


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_mating lions2


The mating process is no walk through the park for the female. Lion penises are burned and during withdrawal the female gets hurt. The pain is necessary as it shocks her system inducing fertilization.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_mating lions1


On our way back to the lodge we spotted a hyena abut I was only able to get a shot of it as it walked away.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_hyena


God must have felt my disappointment because next thing I know we spotted a cheetah.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_cheetah1


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_cheetah


Cheetahs are quite graceful, the one we came across looked like it was trying to hunt (there was a herd of impalas across the road). It was quite a delight just to watch it. Spotting the cheetah was the next most exciting thing after spotting the lion. I have only ever spotted a cheetah in the wild once, in the Mara and even then we were driving far too fast for me to enjoy the moment.

We had an audience, right behind us was a giraffe which seemed to be watching us as we watched the Cheetah.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_giraffe1


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_giraffe


I was able to spot the big five, all except for one. I am yet to see a leopard in the wild.
I had not expected to spot as many elephants as I did at Ol Pejeta. We were able to spot a few families in the morning.

On our way back there was a family of elephants blocking the road. We had to drive slowly as one of the females was displaying aggressive behaviour. They finally moved into the bushes and we were able to pass.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephants on road1


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephant calf


Ol Pejeta Conservancy_elephant family
I would have loved to see some wild dogs but we didn’t spot any.
I quite liked Ol Pejeta, one never had to drive for miles to spot an animal. It kind of reminded me of Amboseli.

How to get there

By road: transfers by road from Nairobi take approximately 3-4 hours.

By air: Nanyuki airstrip is 17 km from the camp, and a ‘meet and greet’ and transfer service can be provided(Please let us know your arrival time in advance).

Phone reception is limited in some areas.


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  1. September 19, 2015 at 11:31 pm — Reply

    Wow, how special is Ol Pejeta. It would be so good to see so many different animals. I can’t pick a favourite photo because I like them all, though I do love the giraffe a lot.

  2. September 19, 2015 at 11:52 pm — Reply

    Beautiful photos! That’s a shame about the hyena, but your shots of the cheetah are so nice. I love the giraffes as well. I would love to visit some day.

  3. September 20, 2015 at 7:16 pm — Reply

    Oh that cheetah looked like it was posing for you 🙂 and that poor fella with the half tail.. You can tell he got his ass whipped in a fight. I would love to see a hyena. Your photos are magnificent as usual. I want to go on safari so badly. I will forever kick myself for not going the whole time my uncle worked at the embassy 🙁 .

    • September 22, 2015 at 8:57 am — Reply

      Start looking up those cheap fares. You still have time to visit.

  4. September 21, 2015 at 2:45 am — Reply

    Poor lioness with the missing tail! At least she lost it due to nature vs. by a hunter or something like that. I’d love to get the chance to see all of these animals in the wild. I love the big cats, especially. Great ostrich pics too. I always tell Jave that he reminds me of an ostrich – lol – I think they’re cute.

    • September 22, 2015 at 9:02 am — Reply

      LOL at him reminding you of an Ostrich. The lioness seemed least concerned about missing half her tail plus if my memory serves me right she did manage to get revenge on the male she fought with, he doesn’t have his whole tail either.

  5. Manesha
    September 23, 2015 at 4:10 pm — Reply

    My jaw dropped when i read this…” Lion penises are burned and during withdrawal the female gets hurt. The pain is necessary as it shocks her system inducing fertilization.” *IDIE

  6. September 27, 2015 at 8:26 pm — Reply

    We are a little wildlife obsessed and have been dying to go on Safari since we started traveling almost 5 years ago. We have decided that 2016 is definitely the year of the safari!!

  7. October 5, 2015 at 9:08 pm — Reply

    You write very well Rachael. I was glued to the post to the end. The pics are breathtaking. You’re awesome.

    • October 5, 2015 at 9:10 pm — Reply

      Such kind words. Thank you Mwaura.

  8. December 12, 2015 at 2:44 am — Reply

    What a special experience! Had to laugh at the elephant crossing sign.

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